21 September 2020
IED UNIVERSITY AND PALMIERO: JEWELLERY BEYOND BORDERS
Turin, 22 September 2020 – The Jewellery Beyond Borders collections were created by the recently graduated students of the three-year course in Jewellery Design at the Istituto Europeo di Design in Turin, in collaboration with Palmiero Jewellery Design, the atelier-workshop in Valenza renowned worldwide for its extraordinary sculptural jewellery creations and partner of the thesis projects for the 2019/20 academic year. With the goal of overcoming geographical and cultural boundaries, the jewellery was designed for the Chinese market, for a target of 25 to 55-year-old women as requested by the master Carlo Palmiero during the IED Turin students’ tour of the artisan workshops located in the heart of the Italian goldsmith district. The revelation of the creative and production process, together with a story that intertwined the company’s past, present and future with anecdotes about the origins of its collections, was a fundamental premise for the design development.
Looking at the ancient history and the modern trends of the Asian country – whose expanding market is leading the luxury sector – the young designers created haute couture collections reinterpreting the style of Palmiero creations in a lightweight and experimental manner, while at the same time respecting tastes, requirements and trends of the Chinese culture. After the initial research, ancient and contemporary inspirations triggered the creation of rings, earrings, brooches, necklaces, bracelets and watches, which were able to overcome not only significant distances in terms of origins and traditions, but even the sudden limitations imposed by the worldwide health crisis. Despite the closure of the goldsmith’s workshop, the initial studies and sketches were transformed into collections with a considerable amount of remote work, by implementing the 3D design and the resin experimentation aspects, and thanks to the valuable support of Palmiero.
Reflecting the essence of Palmiero jewellery – creations that feature large volumes and intense colours, and convey a sculptural style with pavé diamonds, natural stones and precious metals – these new easy-to-wear jewellery creations play with a wide range of symbols, ranging from calligraphy to zhezhi, mahjong, and shan shui, as well as symbols of animals, flowers and other natural elements.“The thesis projects are the climax of our students’ three-year journey, the stepping stone to their professional future. It is the time when they are free to fully express their creativity and the skills they have learned throughout their studies,” explains Paola Zini, Director of IED Turin. “This year more than ever, our students have shown that they know how to tackle challenges, handle difficulties, and complete the design process with courage and determination, sometimes even from other continents. The prestigious partnership with Palmiero Jewellery Design has allowed the young designers to see how they measure up to the demands of a highly rated company in the sector, and the needs of a foreign market, bringing out their personality and passion.”
“Thanks to the opportunity to interact with the students, to understand their visions, and to take them to a far off land, or rather the Far East, the project carried out in collaboration with IED Turin was an extremely interesting experience. This successful project was born from the desire to encourage young people to learn this noble art and to support them to become master goldsmiths, an endeavour that requires a great deal of creativity and innovation – says Carlo Palmiero, Founder of Palmiero Jewellery Design. It’s important to reiterate a concept that I hold very dear: the art of being skilful, and being skilful with art. It was quite intriguing and fascinating to see the various interpretations and creative developments that each student presented in accordance with the brief. I wish them all the best of luck.”
The projects in collaboration with Palmiero Jewellery Design were designed by: Francesca Azais, Gaia Cozzi, Dajana Ferrara, Elena Frigierio, Marzia Gasparotto, Shuang Liang, Marzia Marangon, Giulia Milan, Arianna Orla, Delia Perna Ruggiero, Giorgia Pezzano, Gavrylyuk Yana, and Ilaria Zardo, graduated at IED Torino in Jewellery Design a.y. 2019/20, under the guidance of the Course Coordinator Daniela Bulgarelli.
In the photos only some of the many project jewels brought to the thesis.